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Guide to Trieste, North East Italy

IntroductionTrieste is an Adriatic coastalTrieste is said to have had a great
city  in  northeastern  Italy,  closeinfluence on his writing.Joyce was English
tutor to Itali Svevo, the Italian novelist.
to the border with Slovenia. The sea in the
Gulf  of  Trieste  isSvevo was born in Trieste in 1861, his
Mother  was  part  of  a
very clear and clean, with limestone cliffs
and  rockyTriestian Jewish family, and his Father was
of  German
beaches. The centre of the city has a
mid-European  feel,descent. Joyce encouraged and praised
Svevo's  work  and
more Austrian than Italian, Trieste was the
seaport  of  theSvevo wrote critiques of Joyce's
work.Svevo's book, "The Confessions of Zeno",
Hapsburg Empire.Unique PointsYou can enjoy awas  virtually
combination  of  a sea/beach holiday and the
ignored in Italy. However Joyce recommended
attractions of a cultural city.It is anthe  book  to
ideal destination for a short break but you
couldpublishers in France, where it was hailed as
a  masterpiece.
easily spend a week here too. The Verdi
Theatre  hosts  anThe book is an autobiography of Zeno,
written  for  Zeno's
opera season in the winter and an operetta
festival  inpsychoanalyst, to help get to the bottom of
his  smoking
summer. You can swim in the beautiful clear
sea,  stroll  theaddiction.Svevo is credited by Welleck as
"an  Italian  novelist  with
promenade, and walk along the cliff paths.
Take  in  thepermanent appeal as a psychoanalytical
psychologist  and
wonderful art collection at the Revoltella
Museum. You  canas a portrayer of the inhabitants of
Austrian  and  later  Italian
sip coffee on Piazza Unita Italia with its
grand  19th  centuryTrieste and their often uncertain national
allegiance."Jan Morris wrote the book,
buildings, which face onto the sea.Getting"Trieste  and  the  Meaning  of
thereRyanair flies into Trieste from London
Standsted.  TheNowhere". Morris claims this is her final
book,  a  self-
airport is 35 kms west of Trieste but there
is  regular  publicexamination based in Trieste. Morris
changed  gender.
transport on Coach 51 into Trieste.Getting
aroundIf you do decide to hire a car, it isJan Morris first visited Trieste at the end
worth  checking  that  youof  the  Second
can take it into Slovenia and Croatia if youWorld War as young Welsh soldier. She
are  consideringdescribes  how  the
day trips there.Trieste has a good publiccity "curiously haunted her" . She revisited
transport network.There is a "Trieste by Bus"the  city  as  an
city  tour  in  13  stops. This  is
elderly woman.Morris describes Trieste as
available on Saturdays and Sundays at 2pm"natural  capital  of  the  nation  of
from  the  end  of
nowhere". By this she means a home for the
June to mid October. The two and a halfso-called
hour  trip  allows
"Fourth World" . This is a scattered group
you to see the city's main attractions. Thewith  the  common
cost  is  around
values of humour and understanding, usually
five euros per person.You can take theexiles  in  their
Opicani  tram  up  to the Carso plateau, 348
own communities but probably numerous enough
metres above sea level. This funicularto  form
tramway  was  built  in
their own nation.I laughed at Clay Risen's
1902. The tram leaves from Piazza Oberdancomment  in  his  piece  about
in  the  city
Trieste in the Square Table in Spring 2003.
centre up Scorolo hill to the plateauHe  observed
above.HistoryAccording to folklore Trieste
was  founded  by  Tergeste,  athat "Trieste is the only city in Eruope
which  appears  more
friend of Jason and the Argonauts. Ancient
Tergeste  as  aoften in reflective essays than in guide
books  of  newspaper
Roman colony is dated to around 178 BC. It
became  moretravel sections."Exploring the cityThe best
way to explore the city is to walk around.The
important during the reign of Octavian whenPiazza dell' Unita d'Italia is the heart of
roads  werethe  city. The
improved.The city has had many rulers duringsquare was created towards the end of the
its  history:  Goths,19th  century. It
Byzantines, and Lombards. In the 13thhouses the City Hall, with its clock tower
century  Trieste  wasfeaturing  statues  of
forced to swear allegiance to Venice. ToMikeze and Lakeze, figures from Trieste
escape  Venetianfolklore;
domination, Trieste sought the protection ofGovernment House, with its gilded mosaic
Duke  Leopoldwall
of Austria. Trieste was of great importancedecorations; and the former Head Office of
to  the  HapsburgLloyd  Triestino,
Empire as a seaport and was made a Freeportbuilt in Renaissance style by an Austrian
in  1719.architect.The Victory Lighthouse lights the
Gulf  of  Trieste  and
Without customs barriers the port and city
flourished.At the end of the First World Warcommemorates the dead of the First World
with  collapse  of  theWar. It  stands
Hapsburg Empire, Trieste was returned toalmost 70 metres high with a scaled dome
Italy  in  1918.containing  a
Trieste was taken over by the Third Riechstatue of winged Victory. At the base of
when  Italythe  column  is  the
withdrew from the Second World Ward inanchor of the torpedo boat Audace, the first
September  1943.Italian  ship  to
Two years later there was a 40-dayenter the harbour in 1918. The lighthouse
Occupation  by  Tito'stook  4  years  to
Yugoslav forces. After 9 years under ancomplete and was officially opened in
Anglo-American1927.The Old Stock Exchange is a fine example
of  neo-classical
government Trieste was handed over to the
Italianarchitecture, resembling a Greek temple.
The  Old  Stock
government.Trieste's history may help
explain  why  70%  of  ItaliansExchange stands by the so called Grand
Canal. However
apparently did not know that Trieste was
part  of  Italy  in  athis is rather an misnomer as the canal is
very  short.  There
recent  opinion  poll!
is a statue of Joyce by one of the
With EU enlargement Trieste is ideallybridges.The Arco di Riccard is a Roman gate
placed  as  the  onlyto  the  city  thought  to
natural port in the centre of Europe.date from 33 AD. It is in Piazzetta di
Trieste  is  one  of  threeRicordo  in  the  old  city.
finalists to host the international Expo ofYou can see the Roman amphitheatre at the
Science,foot  of  San
Technology and Culture in 2008. If its bidGuisto hill.The Verdi Opera Theatre opened
is  successfulin  1801. It  is  of  a  similar
there will be more investment in the areastyle to La Scala in Milan.MuseumsThere are
and  Trieste  willmany  museums  in Trieste, most of which are
become better known on the worldclosed on Mondays.Probably the best is The
map.Literary ConnectionsThe Irish authorRevoltella  Museum,  which  was
James  Joyce  lived  in  Trieste  during the
founded in 1872 when Baron Revoletta left
early part of the 20th century. When hehis  home  and  art
first  arrived  he
collection to the city of Trieste. He also
worked as a tutor at the Berlitz School ofset  up  an
English. He  went
endowment, which enabled a larger collection
on to write "The Dubliners", "The Portraitto  be
of  an  Artist  as  a
acquired. The Art Gallery has now spread
Young Man" and start "Ulysses" in Trieste.over  three
The  rich  mix  of
buildings in order to house the
central European and Eastern Mediterraneanever-expanding  collection  by
culture  in
many Italian and other artists.



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