| This article and others that follow will be devoted to | | | | You have to create a level surface or the tiles will |
| home repair and improvement dealing withdifferent | | | | crack or break. Most ceramic floor tile is ¼ |
| areas from roof to basement. | | | | "thick so you will have up to ¾" added to the |
| If you are going to re-do the bathroom floor - this | | | | old floor assuming you had plastic tile or vinyl to begin |
| means taking up your tile, sheet vinyl, or ceramic tile | | | | with. You will be offsetting the height of the old |
| and underlayments you should make sure there are | | | | fixtures and the door so a bit of trimming may be |
| no signs of water damage to the subflooring and | | | | necessary (If you are replacing fixtures-no problem). |
| check to see if it is solid throughout. When laying | | | | For tiling bathroom floors these steps will give you |
| down a new floor the main question is always 'can I | | | | great results: |
| lay tile over the existing floor or do I have to pick up | | | | * Using a 3/ft level check if the floor even |
| the old one first?' | | | | throughout. |
| If the floor is level and sound you can usually just tile | | | | * Lay out a row of tiles, with spacers (cross shaped |
| right over it with plastic or vinyl flooring,but keep in | | | | inserts for grout lines) along the length and width of |
| mind how much room you have for the bathroom | | | | the room to gauge how many tiles you are using. |
| door, door frame and wall molding (if any) -you may | | | | This is also to see how many tile cuts you will have |
| have to open or close the door from time to time! | | | | to make near walls. |
| If the underlayment is solid but not quit level you can | | | | * Lay down cement board, cut to fit area and use a |
| use leveling embossers (like mortar) to fill-in low spots | | | | small layer of mortar to attach board to subflooring. |
| to make a level surface, otherwise place a new | | | | Use screws every 6 to 8 inches along the edges of |
| ¼" underlayment over it, if you can. I have | | | | board to secure in place. Use mesh tape over the |
| seen home owners 'doctor it up' with thin plain wood | | | | seams and cover with a thin layer of mortar. |
| strips - don't do it! All materials must be water and | | | | * Using a trowel apply mortar about every 3 1/2' at a |
| moisture resistant as possible. Always use at least a | | | | time and use smooth even strokes. |
| 3ft level to insure surface is not slanted in any way. | | | | * Set the full ceramic tiles at a point furthest from |
| For a typical ground level home like a ranch with no | | | | doorway and press down firmly, tapping it with a |
| basement, floor foundations are 'framed', meaning | | | | rubber mallet so it spreads evenly. Have the cut tiles |
| the floor sits on joists with 2-by's (stills) running | | | | ready so as you move away from the wall place and |
| perpendicular to the joists along the foundation. | | | | set as you go. |
| 'Girders', (metal rods) at or near the center of the | | | | * insert cross shaped spacers on end between each |
| joists help in support. Above the framing lays the | | | | tile to insure rows are even. At corners lay spacers |
| subfloor, typically a 3/4" tongue and groove particle | | | | flat and butt tiles at the angles (don't worry, it will be |
| board, plywood or similar material. Above that there | | | | same with). You can also stand the spacers upright |
| is a1/4" plywood or cement board (moisture | | | | against walls. |
| resistant) that's called the underlayment and may also | | | | * When you get to the closet flange (toilet hole in |
| have a sheet of roofing felt or similar material for | | | | floor) you will need a tile nipper or tile saw to cut a |
| added cushioning. Take extra caution when laying | | | | partial circle. Do this for all sides and lay tile down as |
| underlayment over the subflooring because the floor | | | | before. You must do this also for sinks and cabinets. |
| may crack if the seems match up so it's best to | | | | * When all the tiles are down you must wait a least |
| stagger the seams. | | | | one day for it to 'set' properly - this is an important |
| Ceramic Tiles: Because this type of tiling has become | | | | step before you put down the grout. When ready, |
| popular in kitchens, bathrooms, halls and even living | | | | mix tile grout to cover about ¼ of the room at |
| rooms for its durability and style, I want to devote | | | | a time, this will give you time to do to right. Take out |
| this section on the subject. | | | | the cross spacers and apply grout with a grout float, |
| Installing ceramic tiles in the bathroom will alter the | | | | then holding float at an angle squeeze off excess |
| height of fixtures like toilets, vanity sinks and | | | | grout. Do this with step with the rest of the room. |
| cabinets as well as the door and adjoining room it is | | | | * The last step is to dampen a clean sponge with |
| best to remove everything and start from scratch. | | | | water and wipe off the access grout, rinsing the |
| This means removing the old underlayment as well. | | | | sponge often. |